A Step by Step Guide to
Knot Tying for Cubs and Scouts

Index

 

• Introduction to Rope and Knots
• Whipping
• Rope and Knot Terms
• Overhand Knot
• Care and Handling of Rope
• Figure Eight Knot
• Reef Knot
• Granny Knot
• Thief Knot
• Bowline
• Sheet Bend
• Clove Hitch
• Round Turn and Two Half Hitches
• Fisherman's Knot
• Tautline Hitch
• Sources

 

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Ropes and Knots

Since the Stone Age, Man has had to contend with the moving of weights and the lifting of heavy loads. As the loads became progressively heavier and more complicated to handle, crude tools were fashioned to deal with these problems. At first, vine stems were twisted together to form a rough rope of sufficient strength. At various times, other materials were used such as the fibrous bark of certain trees, coconut hair, camel hair, horse hair, thongs of sinew or cut hides from animals, cotton, jute, sisal, flax and wild hemp - and so on through the ages until today we have the modern manilla, nylon, polypropylene, steel wire rope and cable.

• Ropes are made from a large variety of fibres plus wire strands.
• Fibre rope can be divided into two broad groups: those made from natural and synthetic fibres.

Natural Fibre Rope

• These are made from several different natural fibres such as abaca (banana), hemp, sisal (coconut), jute and cotton (in decreasing order of strength) with hemp being the most common.

Fibre Rope Construction

• Reverse-twisting - gives rope stability and keeps it from twisting under a strain. This method of construction is as follows: (see figure 1)


• Fibres from six to 20 feet in length are combed to bring them parallel to each other, and a definite number of fibres are right hand twisted to form a yarn;


• A number of yarns are then left-hand twisted into a strand; and


• Finally, three or four of these strands are right-hand twisted to form a rope.

• This twisting pattern produces a right-lay rope. Reverse order of twisting produces a left-lay rope.
• The yarns of a rope can be formed into strands, and the strands into rope, in varying degrees of tightness to make hard-laid, medium-laid ("common" or "standard"), or soft-laid rope. Soft-laid rope has the greatest tensile strength but gives poor service if run over sheaves, and it does not stand abrasion well.

Fibre Rope Size

• Rope is measured in two ways: by diameter or circumference. Ropes up to one inch are generally measured by the diameter and ropes over one inch by their circumference. This must be clearly understood, since a rope one inch in diameter has a circumference of approximately 3 inches, while a rope one inch in circumference has a diameter of 5/16 of an inch.

Synthetic Fibre Rope

• Synthetic fibre ropes are used extensively in industry, due to their strength, shock-loading capacity, and resistance to natural weathering. Most industrial synthetic fibre ropes are the standard three-strand, right-hand lay rope, but braided and other special construction styles are also available.

Nylon Rope

• Nylon rope is very strong and elastic, and is used where shock loading is common or a rope smaller than hemp - but of equal strength - is needed.
• Nylon resists mineral oils and greases, but is affected by paint, linseed oil or acids. Nylon rope becomes slippery when wet and loses a small part of its strength, but it will not rot or mildew.
• Nylon is also the most expensive of the common industrial synthetic ropes.

Poly Ropes

• Polyethylene, polypropylene and others of this group are used as an inexpensive substitute for nylon rope. Poly ropes have the advantage of buoyancy and are therefore used a great deal around water. The tensile strength varies slightly among the poly ropes.

Braided Synthetic Rope

• In recent years, the use of braided nylon ropes has been increasing steadily. Braided nylon rope does not stretch as much as other types, and certain types of braided rope are stronger than many laid ropes of the same fibre.

Knots

• Remember always that a rope fastening is NEVER as strong as the original rope. You do not increase the strength of a rope by tying a knot in it - exactly the opposite is the truth. The bending of the rope in the making of a knot or hitch causes the outside fibres to carry more than their share of the load, and the resultant stretching of the fibres weakens the rope. When a failure occurs, the outside fibres are the first to break followed by the inside fibres. As a rule of thumb only, remember that even with a new rope, a knot reduces its efficiency by 40% to 50%, whereas a splice reduces its strength by 10% to 15%.

 

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Whipping

• Whipping or "seizing" is the common way of preventing a rope from unraveling. This method is fast, and, more importantly, it does not increase the diameter of the rope which can therefore be reeved through a block without difficulty.
• To make a whipping, a fine yarn is generally used. Make a loop in the end of the yarn and place the loop at the end of the rope, as shown in figure 2.

• Wind the standing part (B) around the rope approximately 15 - 20 times, covering the loop of the whipping, but leaving a small loop uncovered as shown in figure 3. Pass the remainder of the standing end up through the small loop, and pull the dead end (A) of the yarn - thus pulling the standing end (B) and the small loop through which it is threaded back toward the end of the rope underneath the whipping, as shown in figure 3.

• Continue pulling the dead end (A) of the yarn until the small loop with the standing end through it reaches a point midway underneath the whipping. Trim both ends of the yarn close up against the loops of the whipping.
• The finished whipping is shown in figure 4.

 

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Rope Terms

Line - another term for rope.

Running End - the free or working end of the rope.

Standing Part - the balance of the rope, excluding the running end.

Knot - the intertwining of the end of a rope within a portion of the rope. A good knot must be easy to tie and untie and must hold without slipping.

Bend - the intertwining of the ends of two ropes to make one continuous rope.

Hitch - the attachment of a rope to a post, pole, ring, hook or other object.

Bight - a U-shaped curve in a rope.

Loop - a fold or doubling of the rope through which another rope can be passed to form a knot or hitch.

Overhand Loop - made when the running end is passed over the standing part of the rope.

Underhand Loop - made when the running end is passed under the standing part of the rope.

Turn - the same as a loop, but usually used to describe the placing of a rope around a specific object such as a post, rail or ring, with the running end continuing in the opposite direction from the standing part.

Round Turn - the same as a turn, with the running end returning in the same direction as the standing part.

Splice - the joining of the ends of two ropes, or, the end of the rope with the body of the rope by weaving the strands over and under the strands of the other part.

Whipping or Seizing - a means of fixing the end of a rope so that the strands will not unravel.

 

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Overhand or Thumb Knot

• Is the smallest, simplest and most commonly used of all the knots.
• Starting point for many knots.
• Used to prevent the end of a rope from untwisting.
• When tied at the end or standing part of a rope, this knot prevents it from sliding through a block, hole, or another knot.
• Used also to increase a person's grip on a rope.
• This knot reduces the strength of a straight rope by 55 percent.
• Jams easily - better to use a Figure Eight Knot.

To tie an Overhand Knot:

• Make a loop near the end of the rope.
• Pass the running end through the loop and
• Draw tightly.

 

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Care and Handling of Fiber Rope

Taken from U.S. Army Field Manual FM-5-125
Rigging Techniques, Procedures, and Applications

• New rope is coiled, bound, and wrapped in burlap. The protective covering should not be removed until the rope is to be used. This protects it during storage and prevents tangling. To open the new rope, strip off the burlap wrapping and look inside the coil for the end of the rope. This should be at the bottom of the coil.
• The strength and useful life of fiber rope is shortened considerably by improper care. To prolong its life and strength, observe the following guidelines:
• Ensure that it is dry and then stored in a cool, dry place. This reduces the possibility of mildew and rotting.
• Coil it on a spool or hang it from pegs in a way that allows air circulation.
• Avoid dragging it through sand or dirt or pulling it over sharp edges. Sand or grit between the fibers cuts them and reduces the rope's strength.
• Slacken taut lines before they are exposed to rain or dampness because a wet rope shrinks and may break.
• Thaw a frozen rope completely before using it; otherwise the frozen fibers will break as they resist bending.
• Avoid exposure to excessive heat and fumes of chemicals; heat or boiling water decreases rope strength about 20 percent.
• The outside appearance of fiber rope is not always a good indication of its internal condition. Rope softens with use. Dampness, heavy strain, fraying and breaking of strands, and chafing on rough edges all weaken it considerably. Overloading rope may cause it to break, with possible heavy damage to material and serious injury to personnel. For this reason, inspect it carefully at regular intervals to determine its condition. Untwist the strands slightly to open a rope so that you can examine the inside. Mildewed rope has a musty odor and the inner fibers of the strands have a dark, stained appearance. Broken strands or broken yarns ordinarily are easy to identify. Dirt and sawdust-like material inside a rope, caused by chafing, indicate damage. In rope having a central core, the core should not break away in small pieces when examined. If it does, this is an indication that a rope has been over strained.
• If a rope appears to be satisfactory in all other respects, pull out two fibers and try to break them. Sound fibers should offer considerable resistance to breakage. When you find unsatisfactory conditions, destroy a rope or cut it up in short pieces to prevent its being used in hoisting. You can use the short pieces for other purposes.

 

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Figure Eight Knot

• Use the figure-eight knot to form a larger knot at the end of a rope than would be formed by an overhand knot. The knot prevents the end of the rope from slipping through a fastening or loop in another rope or from unreeving when reeved through blocks.
• It is easy to untie.

To tie a Figure of Eight Knot:

• Make an under-hand loop in the standing part.
• Pass the running end around and over the standing part, pass the end under and then down through the loop.
• Draw tight.

 

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Reef or Square Knot

• Use the reef knot to tie two ropes of equal size together so they will not slip.
• Note that the running end and standing part of one rope come out on the same side of the bight formed by the other rope.
• The reef knot will not hold if the ropes are wet or if they are of different sizes.
• It tightens under strain but can be untied by grasping the ends of the two bights and pulling the knot apart.

To tie a Reef Knot:

• Pass the right-hand running end over and under the left-hand running end.
• Bring the two running ends together.
• Pass the left-hand running end over and under the right-hand running end.
• Draw tight.

• It makes no difference whether the first crossing is tied left-over-right or right-over-left as long as the second crossing is tied opposite to the first crossing.

 

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Granny Knot

• Unsafe and should never be used as it will slip under load.

• Note that the running end and standing part of one rope are on OPPOSITE sides of the bight formed by the other rope.
• The reason this knot is worth knowing about is to prevent your tying one by mistake.

 

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Thief Knot

• Unsafe and should never be used as it will slip under load.

• Closely resembles a true Reef Knot. Note that the running ends are on OPPOSITE sides of the knot.
• According to legend, sailors would tie their seabags closed with a Thief Knot, assuming that a thief would probably retie the bag with a Reef Knot. This would alert the bag's owner that his bag had been opened.
• The reason it is worth knowing about is to prevent your tying one by mistake.

 

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Bowline

• The bowline is one of the most common knots and has a variety of uses, one of which is the lowering of men and material.
• It is the best knot for forming a strong single loop that will not tighten or slip under strain and can be untied easily.
• The bowline forms a loop that may be of any length.

To tie a Bowline:

• Hold the standing part in the left hand.
• With the right hand, make an overhand loop in front of the standing part. Hold with the left thumb and forefinger.
• Take the running end in the right hand. Pass up through the loop, behind the standing part, and down through the loop on the other side.
• Draw tightly

 

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Sheet Bend

• Tying together two ropes of unequal size. If used this way, the smaller diameter rope should pass around the larger one. Keep in mind that the breaking strength of the combined rope will be less than that of the smaller line.
• Can be used to tie a rope to an eye for light loads.

• Compare the Sheet Bend to the Bowline and you'll see they are essentially the same knot.

To tie a Sheet Bend:

• Make an overhand loop in front with the first rope.
• Pass the second line up through the loop and take it around behind the standing part, and down through the loop on the other side.

OR

• Form a bight with the larger rope.
• Take the thinner rope and bring it up through the bight.
• Pass it around both parts of the thicker line.
• Pass the running end of the thinner rope under the same line and over the thicker rope.

 

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Clove Hitch

• The clove hitch is another widely used knot. It can be tied using the end or the middle of the rope.
• Used to fasten a rope to a timber, pipe, or post. Often used to start and finish lashings.
• With practice, this can be easily tied with one hand.

To tie a Clove Hitch:

• Loop the rope around the object you're tying to. Hold an end in each hand.
• Cross the end in your right hand over the end in your left hand, forming an X with your hands holding the pieces at the top of the X.
• Wrap the end in your right hand around behind the object again in the same direction as before, leaving the wrap loose. When you bring it back around to the front, poke the end under the piece of rope that you just wrapped around.

• To make a Clove Hitch in the center of the rope - see figure 14.

 

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Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

• This knot is used to secure a rope to a column or post.
• It is easily tied, will not jam, and can withstand strain without slipping.
• For greater security, seize the running end of the rope to the standing part.

To tie a Round Turn and Two Half-Hitches:

• With the running end of the rope, take one complete turn around a fixed object.
• Pass the running over the standing part of the rope, and tuck it back up and under itself, forming a half hitch. Repeat for a second half hitch.

 

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Fisherman's Knot

• Used to tie two ropes of equal thickness together.
• Used by fishermen to join fishing line.

To tie a Fisherman's Knot:

• Tie an Overhand Knot in the running end of the first rope around the second rope.
• Then tie an Overhand Knot in the second rope, around the first rope.
• Note that the Overhand Knots are tied such that they lie snugly against each other when the standing ends are pulled.

 

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Tautline Hitch

• This hitch is very useful for rigging tents and tarps because it can slide along the standing part of the rope to take up slack.
• If tied tightly, the knot will hold its position, keeping the rope taut.

To tie a Tautline Hitch:

• Create a bight by passing the free end of the rope through the grommet or around the pole you are tying the rope to.
• Loop the free end twice under the standing part of the rope, moving closer to the grommet or pole.
• Make another loop around the standing part with the free end, by wrapping over, then under the standing part and pulling it through the loop.
• Pull the hitch taut. It can now be worked up and down the standing part as needed and will hold tight under pressure.

 

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Sources

Books:

• Millwright Manual of Instruction by Richard A. Michener

Province of British Columbia Ministry of Labour

• Millwrights and Mechanics Guide 4^th Edition by Carl A. Nelson

Audel Publishing

• Machinery's Handbook Revised 21^st Edition by Erik Oberg, Franklin D. Jones, H.L. Horton

Industrial Press Inc.

• Millwright & Mechanics Handbook by Carl A. Nelson

Coles Publishing

• Knots - A Step-by-Step Guide to Tying Loops, Hitches, Bends, and Dozens of Other Useful Knots by Kenneth S. Burton

Courage Books

 

Internet Resources:

• United States Army Field Manual No. 5-125

Rigging Techniques, Procedures, and Applications

• Get Knotted! Animated Knots for Scouts

by the 42nd Brighton (Saltdean) Scout Group, East Sussex, UK

 

Other:

• Assorted Notes and Handouts from Fanshawe College School of Continuing Education

Industrial Mechanic (Millwright) Program

 

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